Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Adventure Kenya...Part 2



We went to Kenya last month and LOVED it!

I have been struggling to get the pics from JC, who has been running around non-stop since we came back (he is en route to Noupoort as I write, driving through the night again!). I have taken a few with my phone, but they do not come close to showing this country's beauty and contrast. I'll post more later, but before I forget, some of the highlights have to be documented...



Swahili coffee in Mombasa....



 Shopping in Nairobi and the "White Masai" takes a break with his usual phone and spicy coffee!


Eden resort with the Koi pond and parrots and miniature frogs...and the rain :)



Our retreat at Galu :)



The chill space with bottled water...a very nice touch.


We took a small plane from Galu to Nairobi...much better than a taxi.


One of the bike trips called piki-piki...uhm, just don't try it with a dress...

 
...come fly with me, let's fly, let's fly away!
 

Some of the things that stood out was:
- The seafood...Lobster, Crap, Fish and Prawns - It is definitely a pescatarian''s haven.
- Also the affordability of things if you go where the locals shop. Our exchange rate is R1=Ks15. Very interesting things like coconut oil (R4 for 250ml); fat vanilla pods (5 for R8) ; the BEST coffee (1kg of medium roast, medium grind in a local shop for R42); kikoy (2 for R80); a bikini (R80) and board shorts (R100).
- Then there is the beach...powder white with turquoise water, warm, protected by a reef...bliss.


Most beautiful soft kikoy's make excellent towels in summer...


I know...a bit small but perfect for Kenya... where less is more!


Fishies, fishies, fishies....

We made our way to the coast over 3 days, as we took the overnight Premier Classe train from Cape Town to Johannesburg (Adventure....Part 1) and then boarded Air Kenya for Nairobi, where we hopped onto the "Iron Snake of Africa" - The train from Nairobi to Mombasa. What then transpired could be compared to either the greatest adventure, or an unreal nightmare. After "missing" dinner, as the communication system is about knocking on doors and then, if you are lucky, being seated at the same table? (Dinner was a rice and veg curry and some very, very old pieces of fruit). Sometime during the night the train (which looks like it an old, rusted, charmless relic of the past) derailed...We were stuck for a very uncomfortable 10 hours, with a loo which almost looked like a nuclear explosion and no food and only Fanta to drink. JC and I settled in with my "emergency snack stash"  and watched James Bond movies, whilst camo-dressed Americans circled the train with their i-pads, giving live commentary on the perils and dangers of traveling in Africa...very entertaining.

We arrived in Mombasa after midnight, (eventually) got to Tamarind Hotel which I can recommend and crashed for the night. The old town of Mombasa is idyllic, almost a Stone Town of Zanzibar. We had amazing coffee and browsed the streets, using taxi's and tuk-tuks. Very cheap and quite adventurous. The most memorable was our dinner on a real Dhow, complete with cocktails, African band and the most amazing food. Very romantic :) Good food, beautiful swimming pool, great weather, we were in our element.

We then crossed the river by ferry and drove to Eden Resort on the North Coast for a couple of days. The best food  - Lobster and Crab and Prawns, all well below R100/dish, with spacious, new beach front apartments, but the location was not what we were looking for...we didn't "feel"it.

So off we went to the South of Mombasa and the only place we could find was Eden Resort. Also well-run and good food, but too much like a tourist trap, so after a couple of days of non-stop rain we booked a taxi without another place to stay. As we waited in the lobby I came across Galu Beach Resort in the yellow pages and JC spoke to Stephani, the owner, who welcomed us like old friends.

And so we found our little paradise...exactly what we were looking for. Rustic villas on the beach, a sand bank 1km across from the lodge, a butler par excellence named Mulai who does everything for you and Doris in the office. We took the canoes out, we snorkeled, we drowned in G&T's, we lounged in the jacuzzi, had our delicious, personally prepared meals anywhere we wanted and took motor bikes into town...sometimes 3 of us on one bike! What can I say, we felt like the locals :)

The trip back home was very difficult, mostly because we were not ready to leave. We made friends and fell in love with a beautiful country. As I write I can still hear Jumbo Bwana, their favorite song
in my head! We only focused on the coast, but Kenya is world renowned for its wildlife and safari's.....till next time, Jumbo Kenya!



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